It scoops up awards like a fisherman does crabs from the sea floor. But how good really is the food at Upstairs at No.1 Cromer? Reviewer Stuart Anderson headed to the coast to find out.

If you're looking for fish and chips in the Cromer area you're not short of options.

I count at least four dedicated chippies directly in the town itself, not counting the shops in nearby villages or the other eateries which have seafood on the menu.

And while everybody has their favourite, the place you tend to hear most about in the press is No.1 Cromer, or, more specifically, the part of the New Street venue called Upstairs at No.1.

There you'll find classics such as cod and chips, but they also serve creative spins on traditional seaside fare.

To kick things off I ordered the smoked haddock chowder starter (£8.50), which was served with a couple of triangles of homemade bread.

It was a delicious dish and probably my favourite part of the whole meal.

The haddock, sprinkled with pepper and mixed with potato, was delectable and I savoured every morsel - that smoky sensation is hard to beat!

For her starter, my wife Bec had the cockle popcorn (£8.50). I've only ever eaten cockles once before at a coastal pub, and this was roughly comparable.

Each bit was nicely salty and there was certainly enough in the bowl to be getting on with.

After this course had settled, we looked to the main courses.

Bec had the fish-of-the day special, which turned out to be hake (£17.50).

The presentation of this dish was amazing.

Served on a large black plate, the golden brown fillet was seated on roasted new potatoes and long stemmed asparagus.

A shallot purée pooled around the base, and the fish was topped with crispy onion and a sprinkle of herbs.

Although the food seemed dwarfed by the size of the plate, there was more than enough there to fill a hungry belly - I only got to try a little bit but it was delicious.

I opted for the Thai green crab burger (£15.50), which one of the staff told me was made with Cromer crab.

You could call this an ambitious dish. As we all know, seafood is generally more 'flaky' than say, beef, so how do put minced crab in a bun without it all dissolving into a mess the first time you bite into it? And where does the taste of Thailand come into it?

The bun was brioche style, with a fine glaze and a smattering of black sesame seeds.

Under the hood we had the burger itself with a crispy outer crust - which helpfully kept the whole thing intact and prevented any of the much-feared messiness.

Below the burger was a leaf of lettuce and very large slice of tomato, and above it was a mango and avocado chutney to give a hint of the tropics.

The crab was also infused with Thai curry-style flavouring, a surprising yet pleasing mix of tastes.

It came with a side of slaw and a heap of chips, which were crispy with not even a hint of grease.

I've eaten a lot of chips in my life so it would be churlish to suggest these were among the best I've ever had. But they were clearly prepared by a pro, and I could have easily eaten another full portion.

It was altogether a good dish, but next time at No.1 I think I'll go for something more traditional.

We still had room for pudding, so I ordered the homemade chocolate brownie (£7).

The brownie slice had drops of what seemed to be white chocolate, and was crowned with a large scoop of vanilla ice cream. Lashings of chocolate sauce covered the whole thing, and the dessert both looked and tasted stunning.

Bec went for the lemon posset (£7), which was covered with a raspberry compote, and came with a side of thyme shortbread. This was presented beautifully on a wooden board.

I tried a little and it was grand, the sweetness of the compote balancing the citrus underneath.

Setting
It's not tough to find a spectacular setting along the north Norfolk coast, and No.1 seems to have bagged one of the very best.

In Cromer's pedestrianised New Street, the views from upstairs take in the town's famous pier, out to the North Sea windfarms and along the cliffs to the Runtons.

The atmosphere upstairs is casual and unpretentious. There's simple, maritime inspired decor and the place has a family-friendly vibe.

We visited on one of those moody days when the sun was casting a glow over the pier one minute and a short time later the skies were bucketing down onto a choppy North Sea. It made for lovely ambiance.

Toilets
There are loos through a set of doors around the back, and they were clean and tidy.

Service
We booked ahead, so didn't have to wait to be seated. The service was quick and friendly, the the staff gladly answered our questions about the food.

Drinks
There's a solid range of wine, hot drink and soft drink, but what's special her is the 'ale, beer and cider' part of the menu where there are a few house options. There's Galton's No.1 summer ale, ale and lager - named after the restaurant's owner, Galton Blackiston.

Value
Our total bill for two starters, two mains and two desserts, and a couple of drinks, came to £73. It was a lot of food and this was a special occasion, so I'd say it was good value.

Highlight
The location itself has to be a highlight, it's hard to imagine many more perfectly Norfolk places to enjoy fish and chips. The smoked haddock chowder was excellent, but the hake fish of the day dish was also a standout. I'd certainly go back.

If you like that, try these...

Mary Jane's, Cromer
While No.1 often takes the limelight many swear there's no beating Mary Jane's, which is just up the road in Garden Street. The chips are so good there's often a queue stretching out the front, but it moves quickly so stick with it.

Will's Plaice, East Runton
Everyone has their favourite chippy and at the moment this is mine. You can either sit on the benches just outside or rug up and take your hot meal down the slope to the one of the best beaches in Norfolk.

The Waffle House, Norwich
Don't like fish and chips? Don't like the coast? Don't worry! For something completely different, try this classic city eatery where you can get just about anything on an edible, chewy lattice of yum.

Did you know?

The restaurant is already looking forward to the Football World Cup in Qatar in November and December with some enticingly international themed menus.

When England plays Iran in the group stage there will treats such as Persian doughnuts with saffron and rosewater jam on the menu.

The day of the USA game will feature delights including shrimp and grits and seafood jambalaya, and during the England V Wales match diners will be able to sample salmon and leek pie, and Welsh amber pudding. Game on!

Disclaimer

Our food reviews are always independent. They are the opinion of the reviewer based on their experience of the venue when they visited. The establishment is not aware of our visit, is not informed we intend to write a review and bills are paid by the reviewer. The choice of places reviewed is also independent and is not based on venues which do or do not advertise in our publications.