A visit to K&S Fish and The Lowestoft Shellfish Company

Mobile fishmonger Alex Skews and the catch of the day. <i>(Image: Mark Fitch)</i>
Mobile fishmonger Alex Skews and the catch of the day. (Image: Mark Fitch)
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For reasons I cannot now recall, I was recently consumed by a desire to demonstrate a little extra effort in bringing you this month’s column. Following an alarm at 3.15am (a time I ascertained from my phone I had not previously set), I made my way to ‘the other place’ for a 5am rendezvous with fish merchant, Alex Skews. As he had only had to travel down from his home near Great Yarmouth, by the time I got to K&S Fish and The Lowestoft Shellfish Company, Alex had pretty much what he wanted.

It was nevertheless a privilege to see the guys working on the fish that had arrived overnight into port. Their shift had started at 3am, so who knows when their phones first bleeped. A lot of fish has come from North Atlantic and Scandinavian waters, with Norway taking the lead. I also spotted Alex had taken on board some amazing-looking tuna steaks which had originated from Sri Lanka. A couple more stop-offs at Crystal Waters and Silver Darlings (for smoked salmon and kippers respectively) and we were heading back in convoy alongside Breydon Water with the moon still casting its silvery glow, en route to his Wednesday spot at AG Meales, near Stalham.

Although around 30, Alex is very much old-school. You need to track down his van (don’t worry, I will tell you how to do this) and buy fish like we used to.

While I am ‘assisting’ with some pin-boning, it’s evident in what high regard Alex is held by his returning customers.

There are a few who have been in contact to place their orders. Possibly a good idea, as evidenced by one of the first attendees taking 90 per cent of what I initially thought was quite a generous stash of cockles.

The array is quite stunning, crowned by some halibut (a huge fish) portions. The lemon sole are equally impressive.

I ask Alex how he got into this early rising venture. He realised five years ago that he wanted to leave his electrician job in London. His parents offered to take him into their fish wholesaler business (by no means their first rodeo) and then dad, Gerry, suggested the van. Alex was away, and with it, the name ‘4fish’ as in, you need to see him for your fish.

So where do you need to be to acquire the freshest fish and shellfish?

You’ll find the van at AG Meales Garden Centre on Wednesdays and Saturdays, Beeston Garden Centre, on the North Walsham road out of Norwich by the NDR, on Thursdays and Green Pastures Garden Centre on the A146 at Bergh Apton on Fridays. Alex is there from early morning to early afternoon. And if you want to plaice (darn it, I thought I had made it through to the end) those orders, email alex@4fish.co.uk or call him on 07598 245274..

@fitchinthekitchen

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