Bishop's walks the line that every fledgling restaurant aspires to – impressive enough to be the venue for a first date or special occasion, but welcoming enough to become a family favourite.
All-white decor, candles flickering and ornate lights twinkling, it's certainly romantic and intimate – and feels like both someone's dining room and the set of a Christmas movie at the same time. Upmarket without pretension.
Drinks
The restaurant earns its stripes as a wine bar with its varied selection of whites, reds, rosés and dessert choices, compiled by owner Alex Tranquillo. It also boasts two special collections – the Special Cellar Selection, a refined list of classics, and Alex's Special Collection. Despite a scallop starter on the way, I plumped for a rich, fruity rioja (sorry, wine connoisseurs) off the main list, while my date for the evening, formerly a white wine sceptic, was won over by a crisp sauvignon blanc.
Food
To start, the foodie favourite of seared king scallops with crispy kale, truffled salami, roasted Jerusalem artichoke petals and baby clam beurre blanc. Caramelised on the outside, but soft and sweet inside, the scallops were superb, and adopted the flavour of the savoury, salty salami. The crispy kale was just that and was a satisfying change in texture, though the artichokes didn't bring much to the party.
The slight tartness of the beurre blanc sat well with both the clams and scallops, and would have been worthy of a plate lick in a less classy establishment...
Over the table was fresh tuna ceviche with roasted peanuts, salmon crackling and lime and coriander dressing.
Initially sceptical, I was won over by the peanuts, which were a stroke of genius for both flavour and texture and gave robustness to the delicate tuna. The salmon crackling added crunch, though less in terms of flavour, but the citrus dressing was underplayed and lacked the punch of a traditional ceviche. Roast breast of Gressingham duck was next, with a potato and artichoke gateau, pan-fried kale and jus. Served pink, the duck was moist and juicy, with a welcome layer of crispy, salty skin – a great contrast to the soft, buttery potato cake.
Our second main was the pistachio-crusted loin of Suffolk venison, poached pear tartlet, hispi cabbage, red wine and cacao sauce. I'm told the accoutrements were delicious, but the meat itself was chewy rather than buttery, though well-cooked with a rich flavour.
Unsure on portion sizes – and determined not to order a burger on the way home – we opted for the extra veggies, a few carrots, handful of kale and potatoes. Not needed, but the indulgently buttery kale was a welcome surprise.
Admittedly, I'm not a dessert person – I'd pick another starter over a sweet any day, so I was always going to be a tough crowd. The poached rhubarb and elderflower cheesecake, though, was an easy pick and – served with elderflower jelly and ginger ice cream – the large portion was a satisfyingly sweet note to end on.
Service
Top notch. Admittedly, we were the only table in for most of our meal so attentiveness was easy, but our waitress was friendly, eager to please, quick and chatty.
Loos
Fancy. One of each, big, with a snazzy sink that doesn't look like a sink.
Parking
Bang in the city centre, so you'll have to shell out. Castle Mall and St Andrew's multi-storey car parks are a five minute walk away.
Location
Right in the heart of it all - 30 seconds from Cinema City, shops and the lively Bank Plain and Tombland areas. Plenty of hotels a stone's throw away, so an ideal stop on a city break or start to a night out.
Price
Two of us didn't get much change from £100. Dinner is £28.95 for two courses, £34.95 for three and £4.50 if you want extra veggies for two. Wine is £6.50 - £8.50 a glass. Lunch is slightly cheaper, at £14.95 for two courses and £17.95 for three.
Highlight
The atmosphere – closely followed by the food. It felt like a treat, but somewhere to relax and take our time. I'd happily take visiting friends and family there for a memorable Norwich morsel.
In summary
It's probably a stretch to call Bishop's a hidden gem – it's pretty well-known to fine city foodies – but tucked away in one of the city's cobbled alleys, it's easy to miss and though I've lived in Norwich for seven years, this was still my first visit. The price puts it above my budget for a Friday or Saturday night dinner, but I'd definitely nestle back into Bishop's cosy corners for a special occasion.
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