Patrick Widdess pays a visit to Number Twenty Four in Wymondham.
Stepping into Restaurant Twenty Four's grade II listed premises felt like arriving for a dinner party at an old town house.
We were welcomed at the door and swiftly escorted to our table in the spacious dining room.
The restaurant serves a set two or three-course menu and while it only extends to two pages it offers a regularly changing selection of enticing and varied dishes.
Each option offered a mouthwatering and original combination of ingredients.
When we finally made up our minds we were served a complimentary pre-starter, a petite serving of grapefruit and melon with pumpkin seeds topped with a tiny scoop of mango sorbet – it was a refreshing surprise start to the meal.
For starters I chose the crispy pork belly. Thick succulent slices were arranged on top of a light beetroot and pea shoot salad concealing a mass of sweet, gooey red onion chutney.
Brioche croutons and creamy pea sauce rounded off a dish that was light on the stomach but bursting with flavour.
My partner had a vast bowl of smooth, creamy butternut squash and sweet potato soup.
My main course was roast duck breast. I was afraid that ordering it well done had left it too dry but with the red wine Port sauce it was moist with a rich fruity flavour.
It was beautifully complemented with red cabbage and melt-in-the-mouth boxty potatoes (fried mash with bacon bits) alongside a glass of Merlot.
Even without the side dish of mixed vegetables it was a filling main course.
My partner had sautéed cornfed chicken breast which was sweet and tender. It was imaginatively served with cider tarragon jus, spinach, potatoes, onion sauce and roasted apple topped with crispy slices of pancetta.
The dessert menu was short but sweet with a tempting selection of dishes and ever-creative combinations of ingredients including iced meringue parfait with tangy citrus syrup and Cointreau syllabub brandy snap, and dark chocolate cheese cake with Morello cherries and honeycomb ice cream.
I opted for the vanilla creme brûlée.
It's a tricky dessert to make but a thin layer of burnt sugar gave way with a satisfying crack to reveal the creamy dessert below.
It was a treat on its own but came with gooey Victoria plums and a scoop of white chocolate ice cream with chocolate flakes in every mouthful – a marvellous trinity of sweets.
My partner had brioche bread and butter pudding – a gourmet version of the stodgy English classic. I remember it as slices of bread crisp on the outside and soggy with custard in the middle.
This was consistently smooth and creamy.
It was also quite hot on the tongue but there was a scoop of cinnamon ice cream on the side to keep cool.
The restaurant lived up to its claim to serve meticulously prepared and presented dishes with every mouthful of this memorable three-course dinner.
This was fine dining indeed, enriched by the homely setting in a room full of couples and larger parties of diners young and old enjoying good conversation with exceptional food and wine.
Setting
The grade II listed building offers a distinct and homely setting that makes dining here even more special.
Ambiance
The restaurant was full on a Saturday evening but it did not feel too noisy or crowded in the spacious dining room. Booking is advisable.
Service
Some of the young serving staff seemed a little inexperienced but everyone was friendly and courteous.
It can take a while for food to arrive but the wait is worth it and it's not the kind of meal you want to rush.
Drinks
A good wine list and wide range of soft drinks and after dinner beverages.
Accessibility
The spacious dining room and level floor makes the restaurant easily accessible Toilets
A little cramped but clean and well equipped.
Parking
The nearest car park is Town Green and there is limited street parking.
Price
The set menu was £28.50 for three courses and the total bill was just under £66.
For the quality of the food and service this is excellent value.
Highlight
The imaginative combinations of flavours and ingredients made this a memorable dining experience.
In summary
The fine setting and outstanding menu make this an excellent choice for special occasions without breaking the bank.
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