Eating Out

Earle Arms, Heydon

Ifell in love on my first visit to the Earle Arms at Heydon. His name was Charlie and, despite being four years my junior at 25, his distinguished grey hair marked him out. Deaf, blind, with one eye blacked out and holes torn in his ears, he had the look of an old pirate.

But, sitting sphinx-like and thoroughly enjoying his nose being rubbed, he also had something of a gentrified colonel about him.

Charlie was the pub cat and an absolute delight.

We were told he was born in the village and after surviving at least one serious road accident that involved a trip to the vet's he seemed content to live out his twilight years curled up on a sofa in one of the pub's back rooms. And that's just what he did, until last week his nine lives finally ran out.

The loss of this feline character will be keenly felt by many, but, thankfully, there are many other reasons for visiting this rather special village.

Heydon isn't the kind of place you stumble across. It's nowhere near any main roads and, beyond a small road sign before you head down the single road in and out of it there's nothing to suggest what's actually there.

Even as you drive towards the village it feels as though you could be on just another country lane. So it's an absolute delight when you eventually enter what seems like a time-warp. Takeaway the cars parked by the picture postcard cottages and you have a place almost untouched since it was built as a model village in the late 18th century.

You can see why Heydon is so beloved by the makers of film and TV costume dramas. But this is not a place that's frozen in time. There's still a thriving community feel about it. You've got the Earle Arms, a popular little pub, tea room, shop, pump house and a fine church, all surrounding the village green.

On the second Friday of the month there's a motorbike meeting and the whole street alongside the green is packed with vehicles of all shapes, sizes and ages.

Some of the former working buildings have now been converted into homes and there's no longer enough call for a village blacksmith and bakery. But such losses don't detract from the overall atmosphere.

At the top of the village, the road reaches some tall black gates, usually left open, that mark the entrance to Heydon Hall, owned by the Bulwer-Long family - 'lords of the manor', so to speak, for the last 400 years.

Heydon is one of only about a dozen villages in the UK that's still in the ownership of the same family it has been for centuries past.

Declared Norfolk's first conservation area in 1971, it is a treasure of preservation in which the Earle Arms shines out as a traditional business that lives up to the high standards of its setting.

The “wall of debt” in the small terracotta flag-stoned bar with its chunky dark wooden tables and leather studded chairs gives a flavour of how it is managed, as, of course, does the presence of Charlie the cat.

We paid a visit one Friday, on what happened to be 'bike night'. It was suggested we ate a little later to avoid the rush of bikers popping in for their quota of ale. We arrived at 8pm to find the street heaving with two-wheeled machines. But the atmosphere was all rather genial and once esconced in the dining area, which is about the size of a large lounge, there was only the occasional sound of a bike firing up and pulling off to remind us of what was going on outside.

With no music to disturb us, just the gentle chatter of the other diners, we settled in. The restaurant area has wooden beams festooned with hops. The part wood-panelled and part brick-red painted walls are covered in horse racing pictures and there's an open fire place.

It's all very rural, but the crips white table cloths added a touch of elegance.

For starters we chose what proved to be superbly cooked, fresh hot and tasty pan-fried garlic crevettes - delivered on a wooden platter complete with bread roll and dish of warm water and lemon to clean our fishy fingers.

We shared a huge feta and olive salad with sun dried tomatoes, but could have tried a crayfish omelette with sweet chilli.

To wash it all down, we went for the Addingtons cider on tap - a fine almost flat cloudy cider, just as it should be.

After a break, our main dishes arrived and our eyes nearly popped out. We picked a lightly breaded veal escalope with lemon and herb butter - which looked like half a calf - an extremely tasty venison and mushroom carbonade and a whole plaice.

They were all perfectly cooked and all came with fresh new potatoes, asparagus and, with the fish, on-the-vine cherry tomatoes.

We were impressed by the amount of vegetables because we were not overloaded and could savour the flavour of the carbonade, fish or veal.

Well-filled but not defeated, we were left to rest awhile before going on for pudding. How could we not? The atmosphere was unrushed, the staff friendly and the mood calm in the absence of any annoying background music.

So we plumped for a lemon tart, which came unusually heated, a syrup sponge I was indulgently allowed to have custard and ice-cream with and a fresh crème brulee spread out in a dish you normally expect to get pub lasagnes in.

By the time we'd worked our way through them it was past 10pm. And the highlight was yet to come.

Paying at the till, we saw a passageway through to the lean-to conservatory and a back room with a sofa and large wooden table all on a large red rug. In the corner was a dark Victorian looking dresser setting the whole room off with a distinct period feel.

We'd been here before and just had to come back. Quickly scanning the room, we saw him, curled up and fast asleep, though it only took one stroke of his head to get his attention.

Charlie loved this pub and I think many of you might too, even without him.

The Earle Arms, The Street, Heydon; 01263 587376.

Where is it? Heydon is just north of Reepham near Salle.

Do I need to book? Yes, booking is advisable.

Parking? There is usually parking space in The Street or in the car park behind the pub.

Are there vegetarian options? Yes, there are on the main menu and they can do requests provided they are ordered in advance.

Is there disabled access? It would be a bit of a struggle up through the front door as there are steps but you can get a wheelchair in through the back.