Eating Out

Cliftonville Hotel, Cromer

I'm a great devotee of Edwardian architecture and some of the best examples of this elegant style can be found in English seaside towns. And right on our very own doorstep we have one of the 'finest' of this period with Cromer's wonderful and imposing Cliftonville Hotel dating from 1897, designed by George John Skipper, a much-celebrated Norwich-based architect who was actually born in Dereham.

He lived from 1856 to 1948. One of his most striking works can be found in Norwich with the Royal Arcade, dating from 1899. It was built in the Arts and Crafts style and some of the wonderful stained-glass features contained within it echo that of the Cliftonville.

I'm glad to say that the Edwardian splendour of this establishment (which holds AA three-star listing) has not been sacrificed either while sprucing it up to meet modern-day needs. The 'Gone with the Wind'-style staircase in the main lobby, coupled with the beautiful stained-glass windows and doors, are just some of the major architectural features that make this place such a joyous and inviting place to be in.

It's still a family-run business with Belinda Cammell at the helm working in partnership with her sister Annette while her tennis-fit husband Robert - who trained with the Charles Forte Group in the glorious and free-wheeling Sixties - holds court in the kitchen.

Unashamedly, I can say that one of the great joys in life for me is dining out - and opera! Cromer may not be strong on opera but I must say that I was bowled over a few years ago by a skit on Luciano Pavarotti by Bunny and Gordon Jay in the pier show, Seaside Special. But food, on the other hand, is another thing in life and when it comes down to the skill of culinary art there's a star team slaving away in the kitchen of the Cliftonville every night. You'll find this establishment hard to beat.

I've often popped into Bolton's Bistro (and also indulged myself in the Cliftonville's à la carte restaurant, the Westcliff) for a club sandwich and a nice chilled glass of chardonnay, but this time round I wanted to indulge in something more and be waited on hand and foot over a three-course supper. As usual, I was accompanied by my regular dining partner, Miss X, while the other one, Miss Y, wasn't free. I guess she had a better offer! But she certainly missed out on a good night.

And I should like to add to that well-worn expression 'two's company, three's a crowd' (and I like a crowd) by saying 'four's a party!' There's nothing like a party. And that's what my evening at the Cliftonville turned out to be. But, let me add, a nice, quiet and well-mannered dinner party along with my other two guests, William and Kate Morfoot.

On arrival, an aperitif was the order of the day. I went for my usual iced Campari and tonic with a slice of lemon. Miss X indulged in Mother's Ruin, while the other two took to the gin as well.

For some reason or other EM Forster's Grand Tour travellers in A Room with a View came across my mind while being shown to my table. The Cliftonville, which occupies the premier position on the seafront, is the sort of hotel they would adore and would be fussy, of course, about the choice of their room.

But here you needn't worry. All rooms (and there are 30, all en-suite) have wonderful panoramic sea views while being richly decorated in a uniform Edwardian style. If I was staying here I would want one in full view of that gem of a pier I love so much and to be able to see the parade of lights interrupted by such charming nautical characters as the neon prawn with the winking eye and its equally-bright neighbours, the sea-horse and the crab.

But I quickly surmised that part of the charm (and, indeed, service) of the Cliftonville comes with their stylish and impeccably-mannered and well-dressed maître d'hôtel, Myles Nolan. He learned his trade at the fashionable five-star Shelbourne Hotel overlooking St Stephen's Green in Dublin - that says it all.

He arrived with a flourish with the first course, and then I realised that one eats with one's eyes. The presentation of all four dishes was perfect in every conceivable way. Red Thai crab fish cakes rounded off with a nice dose of sweet chilli dressing and salad seemed the order of the day, apart from Miss X who 'do different' as they say in Norfolk, and opted for smoked fish terrine.

She indulged in a very attractively-prepared crab thermidor for her main while Mr M took the opposite number, lobster thermidor. Both dishes, as you can imagine, are a speciality of the house. My main came with sea bass on a bed of garlic mash and a tasty creamy pesto dressing while Mrs M went 'oriental' in Cromer with a dish comprising medallions of beef with crayfish tails. What a nice combination. That's for me next time.

The meal (costing about £25 per head) was helped gracefully along by a glass or two of chilled Muscadet and finished off with strawberries and cream while port and coffee was served in the relaxing atmosphere of the hotel's spacious lobby area dominated by that staircase. It was hard to get out of the seat to go home.

t Cliftonville Hotel, 29 Runton Road, Cromer, NR27 9AS; 01263 512543; www.cliftonvillehotel.co.uk

Where is it? On the seafront.

When is it open? Every day - lunchtime from noon to 2pm and evenings from 6pm to 10pm.

Do I need to book? It's a pretty spacious place but at weekends and holiday time booking, I think, is advisable.

Are vegetarians catered for? Yes. There's always a selection of vegetarian dishes listed on the main menu plus the daily 'specials' board chalks up vegetarian options, too.

Is there car parking? Bags of room.