Harleston 01/02/03

Celia Wigg puts the south Norfolk market town under the microscope.

Where is it:

Harleston is a traditional market town situated on the Norfolk side of the Waveney Valley. Turn off the A143 road at the Harleston bypass roundabout

What's the population:

The current population is about 4500, although this is set to rise dramatically, with plans for 500 new homes. This has sparked fears the town could lose its rural charm, and that services would come under pressure.

Best known landmarks:

The attractive Italianate clock tower overlooking the Market Place has recently been restored and the clock face returned to its original colours of gold on blue. The Magpie Hotel sign has also been a prominent feature for decades. There was recent controversy when the hotel's new owner renamed it J D Youngs, following refurbishment. The name Magpie has now been reinstated to the delight of critics.

Defining moment in history:

Some would say the birth at nearby Mendham of Sir Alfred Munnings. Stories are told of how he used to pay bar bills in Harleston with some of his early works before he became one of Britain's most revered artists. Modern-day Harleston is known nationally for its Magpies - the name adopted by the town's hockey club which ranks among the best in England.

Most likely to see:

It could be magpies, because the hockey club is well subscribed and has teams for women, men, boys and girls. There is also a healthy population of the distinctive black and white birds living in the vicinity.

Best place for a drink:

The Duke William is a friendly family-run pub used by many locals; the Swan Hotel has beams and a log fire in the inglenook to greet customers on a winter's day; and the Cardinal's Hat.

And a bite to eat:

A good choice, whether you prefer take-away cuisine, a quick bite at a cafeteria, or a three-course meal with all the trimmings. The list includes the Taste of Raj Chinese/Indian restaurant, a kebab shop, Chinese takeaway and two very popular fish and chippies, Porkys café, restaurant and takeway in Church Street, open seven days a week with Piglets menu for kiddies.

Any opportunities for retail therapy:

One of the beauties of Harleston is its wealth of small shops and lack of national retail chains. There are specialist shops like the Cheeseboard in Market Place, which stocks over 40 different varieties including sheep and goat cheeses, gift shops and galleries and a pottery. Butcher Terry Beales has the distinction of winning national acclaim with his award winning sausages.

What to do after dark:

Prospects are looking up as the new owners of the old Corn Exchange plan to covert the Grade II listed building into an arts and cultural centre.

Must see before you leave:

The 15th century parish church of St Mary's is situated at neighbouring Redenhall. This is because Harleston used to be part of Redenhall parish. St Mary's treasures include a brass double eagle lectern and Jacobean monument to the Frere family. Harleston does have St John's Church dating from the 1870s, and two chapels.

How to pretend you are local:

Smile and say Hello to people you meet - even though you don't know them.