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 The site where Norfolk really matters Thursday, December 4, 2008 | 20:33 
 
 
 
 
About the Bolderos
 

 

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Halvergate

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Halvergate marches, with their spectacular views, are the setting for this week's seven-and-a-half-mile walk.

WE TOOK THE ROAD OFF THE ACLE STRAIGHT signed Halvergate, opposite the pub, two-and-a-half miles east of Acle. At the right-hand bend, with a large black barrier with arrows, we turned left at the sign Weavers Way along the narrow country lane. Further along, after the farm buildings on left there is parking on the grass verge.

We continued eastwards along this lane, which soon became a rough track and kept along it, going through gates and over stiles until we came to a concrete path. Here we turned right and followed this path round to the railway crossing which we crossed with care.

With the buildings on our right, we turned right to the stile and notice board, climbed the stile and turned left along the bank, walking beside Breydon Water. This path took us to the Berney Arms from where we continued along the path, over stiles to the windmill.

We turned right here, going down the steps over a stile and walked along the gravel path to the right-hand bend where we turned left to the two white posts. Going through a gate we crossed the meadow to the white gate ahead.

The mill at Berney Arms

Crossing the railway line, we climbed the stile on our right, turning left across the meadow. Here the friendly cattle accompanied us to the gate, or you can cross over on the plank bridge.

We crossed several meadows, going over the gates or through them, at one stage keeping close to the ditch on our right.

We kept Tammy on the lead, not only because of the water, but also because of the lambs and calves in the meadows.

At times we wondered if we were lost, as the Weavers Way signs were few and far between! We kept going in a north-west direction, finally coming to a gate with a sign on it!

Keeping right over the earth bridge we turned left along a green lane and very soon climbed a stile on our right and crossed a meadow to barriers ahead. We went through more gates and over an earth bridge, keeping straight ahead.

The next stile was surrounded by water but we managed to get over this obstacle and continued along the path, turning left through a gate and over an earth bridge, then right going towards the windmill.

The path went left and we managed to get through the very narrow gate. The route goes around the gate with a concrete pad; but, as there was a cow with a newly-born calf there, we went through this to the track and turned left to our car.


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Points of Interest (see map)

1 The marshes appeared to be a harsh landscape even on a sunny day in April. How much more is it so in winter time? We have no doubt this was a smugglers’ delight in days gone by!

2 On the path beside Breydon Water you might be lucky enough see a kingfisher. We saw peewit, swan, heron, shellduck and other duck on the landward side of the path. Two rivers, the Waveney and the Yare, meet here. In the 1800s many a report was recorded in the Norwich Mercury of customs officers arresting smugglers, one of whom was Richard Woodham, of Yarmouth. Goods smuggled were tobacco, spirits, and yes, handkerchiefs! This area was a setting for a book entitled Black Sailed Traders, by Roy Clark.

The Berney Arms, one of the most remote pubs in Norfolk.

3 We had a very warm welcome, as usual, at the Berney Arms. The pub can only be reached by foot, boat or train, and only a private track runs to it. There is a very good menu, and the excellent fayre is served seven days a week. Charles enjoyed a pint of Woodforde’s Great Eastern. The windmill is the finest remaining example of a marsh mill. It has seven floors and is by far the highest marsh mill on the Broads, being 70 foot high. It is thought it was built in about 1840 for the Berney family. It was originally built for grinding cement clinker – the cement made from the chalky mud dredged from the river bed. It closed in 1880, soon after it was converted into a drainage mill.

Map References OS Landranger 134, Outdoor Leisure 40: 432066, 441068, 464072, 478070, 465049, 460053, 449057, 442062, 432066.

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