Tina Pemberton, chef-proprietor of The Café at Brovey Lair in Ovington prepares a Scallop Ceviche with Avocado Salad. Photography: Denise Bradley.

THE FIRST TIME I TRIED CEVICHE was in Texas. Fifteen years ago I was on an assignment in the USA inspecting restaurants and hotels on behalf of airline privilege programmes.

At the same time, and no doubt in the same restaurant, I discovered the frozen version of a Marguerita: A kind of alcoholic sorbet, this is what all ex-college girls were drinking in this part of America while their 20-something athletic and sun tanned escorts hung out at the bar swigging Corona beers from up-ended bottles.

Mike and I were in Houston at one of the busiest and best Tex-Mex bar-restaurants in town. While we waited endlessly for a table we scoffed our way through several baskets of tortilla chips with guacamole and salsa.

The next day, we drove down to San Antonio on the Mexican border and spent Memorial weekend at a charming hotel called La Mansion del Rio situated on River Walk. That day there was a spectacular carnival on the walk with musicians, flamenco dancers, jugglers, conjurers and many colourful entertainers.

That night, instead of dining in the hotel, we were persuaded to go to the Mexican market where we were told we would find wonderful food.
We tried to get a table at a restaurant we had read about but the waiter said to come back at 10. So we were starving when, eventually we sat down to eat.

What could we start with that required no cooking? Ceviche! This is a Mexican speciality. Extra fresh raw fish and seafood is marinated with limes, chillies and olive oil.

It was magic. We ordered more, together with a bowl of the best guacamole I have ever tasted.

Now for the recipe. I have added avocado and yellow tomatoes, both of which go well with ceviche. (use cherry or plum tomatoes if you are unable to find yellow ones).

What you will need is ultra fresh raw fish or seafood. I like scallops which lend the dish a slightly more exotic touch. They should be thinly sliced so the marinade will have an immediate effect.

SCALLOP CEVICHE AND AVOCADO SALAD
(serves four as a light lunch or dinner appetiser)
2–3 king scallops per person.
2–3 red chillies.
1 juicy lime.
extra virgin olive oil.
crystal sea salt.
1 large avocado.
1 bunch of coriander.
2 spring onions.
sprig of mint.
several plum or yellow tomatoes

Prepare scallops
Slice thinly into a wide flat-bottomed dish.

Marinate them
First sprinkle with salt then squeeze over lime juice saving half for the salad.
Cover completely with olive oil then chop chillies, coriander, spring onions and mint into the oil. The dish can be served immediately but becomes spicier if chilled for an hour or more in the refrigerator.

Prepare the salad
Finely chop a ripe avocado; add lime juice, olive oil, quartered tomatoes with more mint and coriander. Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper to taste.

Now plate the ceviche and salad
Create a small mound of salad at the centre of the plate and carefully arrange the scallop slices in a circle around it dotted with chopped red chillies.

What to drink
Tequila – either on the rocks and chased down with a Corona beer, or with lime juice, a touch of sugar and salt on the rim. If you insist on a wine, choose a semi-sweet Rhine wine from Germany or a really strong Alsace from just over the border with France. With spicy food they are perfect.

• Tina’s recipes can be found on our website at Menus and pictures are on her website at www.broveylair.co.uk
  The Café at Brovey Lair has been voted one of the UK’s top 40 restaurants outside London by the Square Meal executive dining programme. The award is for overall experience. To reserve call 01953 882706 at least four days in advance.